How to Seal Tile, Marble,
Granite, Fine Stones, Brick, Concrete,
Slate, Grout, Clay, and Masonry
with
DURO SHINE SEALERS
part 1 - Our Products
part 2 - Installation Information
First let's put our sealers
into four categories, and see the differences.
PENETRATING, ACRYLIC/ POLYURATHANE
IMPREGNATING
SEALERS, AND THE COLOR ENHANCER
1) PENETRATING SEALER
for use on concrete, clay, masonry
and pavers
404 PENETRATING SEALER is
a penetrating sealer, as opposed to a film-former. A film-former is one
that forms a plastic film. These are nearly invisible. This sealer is a
potassium siliconate, and type of reactive silioxane. When it is applied,
it reacts with the concrete, forming densifying crystals, that add a water
resistant barrier.
404 is for use on any masonry,
or clay type of porous tile, concrete or stucco. You would not use this
type of product on marble, or granite. This will protect against water,
and is an excellent grout release. A grout release means that if you install
a porous tile, such as a paver; you must stop the porosity of the tile
before you grout. If not, then the grout will stain the tile. 404
IS A STAND ALONE PRODUCT, and
should not be used in conjunction
with any other of our sealers.
404 is not intended to be an oil-resistant
product. Should oil fall on the surface; it will remain on the surface
for a time (days) at normal temperatures. But when you clean it up; oil
residual will remain in the upper layers of the finish.
404
is a great product for
the money. Most of the competitors require several coats to seal, and some
never quite do the job. Some if applied too much will get shiny; 404
will not. Some will turn to white powder on top; 404 will not. With
ours, you will only experience a slight color change of the surface. Not
really noticeable, unless you have a dark colored stucco and the color
must be precise.
404 is an off white, water
based liquid, that can be applied with a brush, roller or sponge. It can
be used with a sprayer.
But as always with sealers; test
some on an un-installed area before applying to your substrate.
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404
PENETRATING
SEALER
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CLICK
BRICK
TO ENLARGE
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2) Water
based SELF-CROSSLINKING Acrylic/ Poly Sealers
for use on clay, concrete, masonry,
slate,
pavers, bricks and porous stones.
Our water based Self-crosslinking
acrylic/ poly sealers are for use on porous surfaces such as concrete,
stone, clay and concrete pavers, brick, grout, stamped concrete, slate,
unglazed tile, and masonry surfaces. These are film forming sealers, are
the SUPERIOR
LACQUER REPLACEMENT products.
With the V.O.C. laws in California,
and other states following the same; water based products must replace
solvent based ones. In California, this change has happened. Dealers, and
contractors are looking for something to replace old, inferior
solvent based lacquers. Our water based self-crosslinking
polys out-perform
lacquer.
We have two poly products. 646
PLUS SEMI GLOSS, and 686 ULTRA HIGH GLOSS. As
with the acrylics, the main difference is the look. 646 PLUS
is
semi
gloss, and 686 PLUS is the ultra high gloss.
They are harder plastics than the
acrylics, and have a much higher melt point. When acrylics are softening
in hot weather; polyurethanes maintain their integrity. These are self-crosslinking
acrylic-modified polyurethane products. The self-crosslinking acrylic,
and the solvent-free poly are the ultimate resin for a film-forming sealer.
The combination obtains the optimum characteristics of each.
You also will not have to breathe
the high solvent content of a lacquer, and you will get better results.
Also if you look carefully on the label of solvent based
lacquer,
some actually tell you not to use where hydrostatic pressure (vapor pressure)
exists. That would be just about anything attached to the earth.
Then they tell you to use it on your driveway. First it shines; then it
peels. Feel confident with our semi-gloss, and ultra high gloss sealers.
These sealers only slightly darken the surface.
Then comes the unsightly aspect
of lacquer. It yellows, peels, and darken tiles, loosing
the essence, and color the substrate. A common sales pitch we hear about
lacquer
is ..."it gives a beautiful dark look to the tiles". If you want the WET-LOOK;
check out our 848 Color Enhancer.
They maintain, and enhance
colors, and original beauty.
646 PLUS and 686 PLUS have
excellent coating and re-coat properties. Apply with a brush, sponge, roller,
or sprayer. Apply a heavy first coat, and let completely dry. Remaining
coats should be light. If the surface darkens like it is getting wet, when
you are applying; it is not sealed yet. When you apply the coat where it
does not darken when it gets wet; then it is sealed. The re-coat is excellent.
Do not apply in direct sunlight on a hot day. Flashing could occur, where
the sealer sets up on the surface, and does not penetrate into the surface.
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646 PLUS
LOW GLOSS
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CLICK
STONE
646 PLUS
SEALED SLATE
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CLICK
STONE
646 PLUS
SEALED
PAVER
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CLICK
STONE
646 PLUS
ON FLAMED
GRANITE
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CLICK ABOVE TO ENLARGE
VIEW SEALED AND UN-SEALED STONES
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686 PLUS
ULTRA HIGH
GLOSS
PAGE
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CLICK
STONE
686 PLUS
SEALED
SLATE
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CLICK
STONE
686 PLUS
SEALED
PAVER
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CLICK
STONE
686 PLUS
ON FLAMED
GRANITE
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CLICK ABOVE TO ENLARGE
VIEW SEALED AND UN-SEALED STONES
3) Water Based Impregnating Sealers
for use on marble, granite,
limestone, cantera, clay and pavers
and concrete
Invisi-Guard Impregnator is
a high grade product, that is used on all types of stones to provide excellent
water, oil and stain resistance. It is nearly invisible. This is a water-based
product; under 100 v.o.c. , that performs as well as, or better than any
oil, or water-based impregnator on the market.
Invisi-Guard is your choice
product for marble, granite, and other fine stones, that are not porous
enough for film-forming gloss, or
semi-gloss sealers, as well as
concrete, and other porous stones, and plaster. It is a stand alone product,
and should not be used with any other sealing product. This is a reactive
product, that forms a permanent bond with the stone or masonry surface.
Don't be fooled by the price, or that it is water-based.
Our product costs as much, or more
to produce as many of the $100 + sealers. But we only make a reasonable
markup.
Impregnators cost more than your
average film-forming sealer to make, but not 10 times as much. We refer
to what has evolved in the impregnator business, as the "Rolls Royce syndrome".
The first company to come out with oil resistant, invisible technology,
set the mark at well over $100 per gallon. If you knew how little these
cost; you would be shocked. Now everybody comes along
and sells theirs in the same price
range. This is great for the bottom line of sealer companies, but not so
great for the consumer.
We are leaders in the latest chemical
technology, and we have a better product, for a reasonable price.
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INVISI-GUARD
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CLICK
MABLE
TO SEE
ENLARGED
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CLICK
GRANITE
TO SEE
ENLARGED
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CLICK
CANTERA
TO SEE
ENLARGED
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4) Color Enhancer / Sealer
for use on travertine, limestone,
marble, granite,
slate, bricks and any
un-sealed stones
848 Color Enhancer is a waterbased
enhancer/ sealer that is used on travertine, granite, marble, brick, limestone,
clay and
un-sealed stones to give them
the
WET LOOK, and seal them.
This formula is under 100 v.o.c.,
so it complies with all SoCal A.Q.M.D. regulations. This is a modified
hybrid epoxy/ alkyl resin
that provides depth of color,
and clarity of color never seen before in a stone enhancer.
Check out the pictures on the
enhancer page
of the rich, and beautiful colors
brought out by this amazing product !
One picture is worth 1,000 words.
CLICK ON STONES TO SEE ENLARGED VIEW
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848
COLOR
ENHANCER
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INSTALLATION
INFORMATION
#1 The surface
must be CLEAN, and DRY!!! before using any sealer!!!
This is the biggest way to get
in trouble. Sealers do not hide grout haze, or dirt. What you see is what
you get. Properly clean your surfaces before grouting. The surface must
also be visibly dry, so the sealer is absorbed into the substrate. Failure
to do so, may result in lifting, or peeling of the finish. This is a golden
rule for all sealers; not just ours. This is especially important on floors
where hydrostatic pressure may exist (vapor pressure from below the surface).
Even after a sealer cures in the upper part of a substrate, vapor pressures
will force their way up through the sealer. The particle size of sealers
usually leave small spaces approximately 1 micron, or smaller which lets
vapor pressure breathe out of the substrate. At the same time standing
water, and stains, on the surface will be repelled from absorbing into
the surface. If the surface is not dry when you apply the sealer; capillary
action does not draw the sealer into the surface. In this case, the sealer
will sit on the surface, and have nothing to grab into, and the sealer
will lift. This condition will appear similar to efflorescence. This situation
will require stripping the sealer and re-applying. So a little patience,
and preparation is well worth it.
#2
WATER, or OIL RESISTANT; do not mean WATER or OIL PROOF.
Look up the meaning of each,
and understand them. Resistant here means, these are great for an outside
patio that gets even a substantial amount of rain, or oil; but does NOT
infer that you would use these products to water-proof your water storage
tanks, or swimming pool, although they would provide a high degree of protection.
Also when a product is considered stain resistant; it still leaves the
burden of good house cleaning on the end user. Even if a sealer repels
a stain as it hits the surface; it will in many cases, loose some of it's
effectiveness as time goes on. Your sealer is designed to give you a jump
on stains.They are not intended for a replacement of good cleaning practices.
#3
If a floor has mortar, or efflorescence;
it must be cleaned, and dry before
applying sealer. If you need to use an acid to remove mortar, or grout
haze; use as weak a solution as necessary. Be sure to protect yourself,
as acids can cause serious burns. If an acid has been used; be sure to
read #8 (proper neautralizing), then rinse, and let dry. If you do not
neutralize after using acid, and then apply a sealer; the sealer will not
cure to it's maximum hardness. In the event of a strong solution of acid;
you could actually end up with your sealer having the hardness of a crayon.
This would only happen with a very strong solution, that was not neutralized.
Acid also breaks down concrete, clay and other types of masonry surfaces.
These surfaces are healthy in an environment, when the ph is above neutral.
Remember to properly pre-seal tiles to keep mortar, and grout from causing
a problem that would require using acid.
Do not attempt to hide efflorescence
with sealer. Efflorescence is that white chalky look that tiles, and concrete
sometimes get. It is most often an alkaline minerals such as sodium oxides
(inherent in clays, and mortars). These come to the surface with moisture
(vapor pressure), and react with carbon dioxide. They crystallize to form
chalky deposits. Use a ph neutral treatment to clean efflorescence, never
use an acid treatment. Again we rarely want to expose our surfaces to acids.
Be sure the surface is clean, dry,
and stable prior to sealing. Remember; what you see is what you get.
#4
Whichever look you want; start with that product.
If you want an invisible look
then use either 404 Penetrating Sealer, or our Invisi-Guard Impregnating
Sealer, depending on the stone, and your requirements. If you want
a high gloss look, you should start, and finish with Ultra High
Gloss 686 PLUS. For a matte, or semi-gloss look, use 646 PLUS SATIN/
LOW GLOSS.
Use product to pre-grout, and after
grouting, go back, and finish sealing with the product you started with.
Our products are designed with a good balance between coating, and penetration.
Some companies that produce water downed versions of sealers, tell you
to first use their penetrating sealers, and then use a film-former (plastic
sealer) on top. This flies in the face of good sense. Although there are
some circumstances where the substrate is so porous that you can apply
one coat of a penetrating sealer prior to an acrylic, or polyurethane;
good care must be taken by prior testing, to ensure that the film former
will properly absorbed into the surface. If you seal the surface to well,
the penetrating sealer will be a bond breaker between the surface, and
the sealer. Your safest bet is to start with the product you want as your
finish product. Whatever you do; never use a pre-grout product to clog
the pores that is not a sealer. Soap type products can work o.k. as a grout
release, but negatively affect the ability to properly seal the project.
#5
These are water based products.
Do not attempt to coat over an oil
based finish. It will not adhere. It will be obvious that the finish is
not taking. If you apply a water based product to an oil-based product,
you will see what is called cratering. That is when the sealer does not
lay down in an even coat and you see areas where the sealer is rejecting
itself from the surface. There are two things you can do in this circumstance.
One is to strip the old coating off, or if the law allows; you can re-apply
an oil based coating.
#6
These finishes can be removed
with any of the strippers on the market
for water based paint or sealers. This is includes the polyurethanes. These
are acrylic modified and are stripped in the same manner as an acrylic.
Bear in mind, that strippers are products that melt plastic sealers.
Therefore use of chemical respirators,
good ventilation, protective clothing, and protective gloves are essential.
Read and follow all directions, and warnings provided by the manufacturer.
Avoid even short-term exposure to stripper fumes. We recommend you seek
professional help, if you are unsure about stripping your project.
#7
If you have not used a sealer
before on a given product; make
a test sample, on an un-installed piece of your stone, or tile, to ensure
it is the effect you are looking for, and that the sealer is compatible
with your substrate. Seal your test sample in the exact same manner you
plan to seal your substrate. Then after it is cured; test for water resistance,
stain resistance, slip resistance, and any other properties which you are
expecting the product to provide. Also if you are not sure about the suitability
of this product for your application; seek professional advice from a licensed
application company, and ask for references. You can also call us, and
we would be glad to assist you.
#8
People ask is this a one coat, or two coat product?
Our products are formulated to work
on a wide range of products. While they are designed to have very good
coating properties; there is no exact answer to how many coats. Different
stones have very differing absorption rates. Beware of so-called one-coat
products. You may not get proper penetration for the sealer to properly
work. Sealers are different from paints. Sealers need to absorb into the
substrate, and anchor in. You decide that your job is properly sealed as
follows: Apply your first coat of sealer. You see the surface darken as
it gets wet. Let the surface become visibly dry. Apply next coat. If the
surface again darkens; it is not yet sealed. When you apply the coat where
the surface does not darken, as if it is getting wet; then your job is
sealed. We then recommend one more coat for safe keeping. Remember to let
the floor properly cure prior to expecting full performance.
#9 Applying sealers after an
acid stain
If you are planning to use a film-forming
(semi-gloss, or high gloss product) over an acid stain; read this two times;
then read it again backwards! Acrylic,
and polyurethane sealers need to be in a ph range, slightly above neutral.
If they are not you will see a drop in performance. It will seriously affect
the hardness of the finish, and all other performance factors. The worst
case example
of acid contamination I have ever
seen was a job I looked at, that had 686 High Gloss applied. When I examined
the surface; it felt like crayon. I was not sure what was on the surface.
When the homeowner told me the other room was just fine; I inquired, and
found out that he had not used a sealer prior to grouting, and he had used
undiluted muriatic acid to clean the grout in this area. He also did not
rinse the surface. This did not just affect the sealer, but did some serious
damage to his grout.Your average person would not do something that radical,
but lesser degrees of acid contamination will affect the performance...To
demonstrate the importance of, and how to neutralize after acid staining;
I have quoted from the web site of the L. M. Scofield Company.
They manufacture acid stains, and
the following excerpt from TECH-DATA BULLETIN A-414 in italics shows
what needs to be done.
"....Rinsing: After the final
application of LITHOCHROME Chemstain Classic has remained on the surface
for a minimum of 4 hours, all unreacted Chemstain residue must be neutralized
and then removed completely prior to sealing. A solution of baking soda
(sodium bicarbonate) and water, using 1 pound of baking soda per 5 gallons
of water (454 g/19 L), can be used to neutralize the residual Chemstain
acid. The solution should be applied until it stops fizzing.
After neutralization, the
surface should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water several times to remove
soluble salts. Runoff may stain adjacent areas or harm plants. It should
be collected by wet-vacuuming or absorbing with an inert material. After
rinsing is complete, a pH test using litmus paper or pH paper should be
performed to verify that no residual acid is present. A wet strip of red
or neutral litmus paper should be applied to the surface, and if the litmus
turns blue, no residual acid is present. Alternatively, wide-range type
pH paper can be used by applying a wet strip to the surface and comparing
with the color chart. If the color chart indicates a pH of 7 or higher,
no residual acid is present. If residual acid is present, further neutralization
is required. After completion of neutralization, rinsing, and verification
that no acid is present, the stained surface should be tested for cleanliness
by wiping the surface with a white cloth. If residue appears on the cloth,
additional surface cleaning must be performed.
Failure to completely remove
all residue prior to sealing the surface will cause
appearance defects, adhesion
loss or peeling, reduced durability, and possible bonding failure and delamination
of the sealer....Failure to completely remove all Chemstain residue and
rinse the surface clean prior to sealing will result in performance problems
with the sealer..."
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