PENETRATING - ACRYLIC/  POLYURATHANE
 IMPREGNATING SEALERS
and
COLOR ENHANCER/ SEALER

We are on the leading edge of superior new technologies in low v.o.c. products
for your masonry, unglazed tile, slate, pavers, concrete, marble, granite, grout,
stamped concrete, limestone, travertine, brick, clay, and stone projects.

"...innovators in low v.o.c. stone protection products..."
"...Duro Shine develops and manufactures high quality water-based products
  to the highest standards of performance...at realistic prices..."

HOW TO SEAL STONE & TILE GUIDE
The following information is provided to make your application of sealers trouble free.
  Often we find people applying sealers as an after-thought.
It should be understood that applying sealers is as important a process as setting the tile.

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I hope you find the following helpful.
Read on, and happy sealing!

How to Seal Tile, Marble, Granite, Fine Stones, Brick, Concrete,
Slate, Grout, Clay, and Masonry
  with
DURO SHINE SEALERS

part 1 - Our Products

part 2 - Installation Information

 First let's put our sealers into four categories, and see the differences.

PENETRATING, ACRYLIC/ POLYURATHANE
    IMPREGNATING SEALERS, AND THE COLOR ENHANCER

1) PENETRATING SEALER
for use on concrete, clay, masonry and pavers

404 PENETRATING SEALER is a penetrating sealer, as opposed to a film-former. A film-former is one that forms a plastic film. These are nearly invisible. This sealer is a potassium siliconate, and type of reactive silioxane. When it is applied, it reacts with the concrete, forming densifying crystals, that add a water resistant barrier. 

404 is for use on any masonry, or clay type of porous tile, concrete or stucco. You would not use this type of product on marble, or granite. This will protect against water, and is an excellent grout release. A grout release means that if you install a porous tile, such as a paver; you must stop the porosity of the tile before you grout. If  not, then the grout will stain the tile. 404 IS A STAND ALONE PRODUCT, and 
should not be used in conjunction with any other of our sealers. 404 is not intended to be an oil-resistant product. Should oil fall on the surface; it will remain on the surface for a time (days) at normal temperatures. But when you clean it up; oil residual will remain in the upper layers of the finish. 

404 is a great product for the money. Most of the competitors require several coats to seal, and some never quite do the job. Some if applied too much will get shiny; 404 will not. Some will turn to white powder on top; 404 will not. With ours, you will only experience a slight color change of the surface. Not really noticeable, unless you have a dark colored stucco and the color must be precise. 

404 is an off white, water based liquid, that can be applied with a brush, roller or sponge. It can be used with a sprayer. 

But as always with sealers; test some on an un-installed area before applying to your substrate.

404
PENETRATING
SEALER
INFORMATION
PAGE
CLICK
BRICK
TO ENLARGE
CLICK
CONCRETE
TO ENLARGE
CLICK
STUCCO
TO ENLARGE

     2) Water based SELF-CROSSLINKING Acrylic/ Poly Sealers
&
Joint Stabilizers
for use on clay, concrete, masonry, slate, 
pavers, bricks, decomposed granite, sand joints and porous stones.

Our water based Self-crosslinking acrylic/ poly sealers are for use on porous surfaces such as concrete, stone, clay and concrete pavers, brick, grout, stamped concrete, slate, unglazed tile, decomposed granite, sand joints and masonry surfaces. These are film forming sealers, are SUPERIOR LACQUER REPLACEMENT products.  Film forming means they form a plastic film. These are stand alone products. You start with them, and finish with them. They are designed to be multiple coat products, because there needs to be a balance between penetration, and coating. They penetrate very well on porous substrates, so you
DO NOT use a penetrating sealer first. Film forming sealers for tile, and stone need to
penetrate into the surface so they are anchored in. If they just sit on the surface as a one coat product would do, then vapor pressure could make them lift (delaminate), and you would not get the depth of enhancement, or stain protection.

With the V.O.C. laws in California, and other states following the same; water based products must replace solvent based ones. In California, this change has happened. Dealers, and contractors are looking for something to replace old, inferior solvent based lacquers. Our water based self-crosslinking acrylic/polys out-perform any non-self-crosslinking product on the market. 

We have two self-crosslinking acrylic/poly products. 646 PLUS SEMI GLOSS, and 686 ULTRA HIGH GLOSS. As with the acrylics, the main difference is the look. 646 PLUS is semi gloss, and 686 PLUS is the ultra high gloss

They are harder plastics than the acrylics, and have a much higher melt point. When acrylics are softening in hot weather; self-crosslinking acrylic/ polyurethanes maintain their integrity.  The self-crosslinking acrylic, and the solvent-free poly are the ultimate resin for a film-forming sealer. The combination obtains the optimum characteristics of each. The solvent free polyurethane side adds to the hardness and durability. The self-crosslinking make these the high end choice for use as a joint stabilizer, or binding decomposed granite. These also add strength and integrity to grout. 

When grout forms; it is similar to concrete. It is a 28 day curing process. Most tile setters do not wait more than a day, or two after grouting to seal tiles. Sealers damage the grout curing process, and compromise the grout. 
If someone tells you otherwise; do the poor man's test to see what I am explaining.
Take a little grout in a small cup, and mix it with the amount of water you would add to your grout. Then take another cup, and instead of adding water; mix it with the same amount of sealer. Wait a few days and look at your results. The water/ grout mixture will be hardened, while the sealer/ grout will be like sand.
We recommend waiting until grout is cured, and then get the extra added strength of our film forming sealers on your project.

You also will not have to breathe the high solvent content of  lacquer, and at the same time... get better results. Also if you look carefully at the label of some solvent based lacquer, some actually tell you not to use where hydrostatic pressure (vapor pressure) exists. That  would be just about anything attached to the earth. Then they tell you to use it on your driveway. Oil based lacquer is NON BREATHABLE. First it shines; then it darkens and yellows as it decays, loosing the color, and essence of the substrate, and peels. A common sales pitch we hear about lacquer is ..."it gives a beautiful dark look to the tiles".

Feel confident with our semi-gloss, and ultra high gloss sealers. Our film formering sealers only slightly darken the surface, while they enhance the natural colors, of your stone, and are breathable. Breathable means that vapor pressure from below can work it's way through the surface without delaminting it.

646 PLUS and 686 PLUS have excellent coating and re-coat properties. Apply with a brush, sponge, roller, or sprayer. Apply a heavy first coat, and let completely dry. Remaining coats should be light. If the surface darkens like it is getting wet, when you are applying; it is not sealed yet. When you apply the coat where it does not darken when it gets wet; then it is sealed. The re-coat is excellent. Do not apply in direct sunlight on a hot day. Flashing could occur, where the sealer sets up on the surface, and does not penetrate into the surface.

  646 PLUS 
LOW GLOSS
INFORMATION
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  CLICK 
STONE
646 PLUS
 SEALED SLATE
CLICK
STONE
646 PLUS
SEALED
PAVER
CLICK
STONE
646 PLUS
ON FLAMED
GRANITE

 
  686 PLUS 
ULTRA HIGH
GLOSS
INFORMATION
PAGE
CLICK 
 STONE
686 PLUS
SEALED 
SLATE
CLICK
STONE
686 PLUS
 SEALED
PAVER
CLICK
STONE
686 PLUS
ON FLAMED
GRANITE

3) Water Based Impregnating Sealers
for use on marble, granite, limestone, cantera, clay and pavers
and concrete

Invisi-Guard Impregnator is the BEST impregnator on the market. It is used on all types of stones to provide excellent water, oil and stain resistance. It is nearly invisible. This is a water-based product; under 1 v.o.c. , and performs better than any oil, or water-based impregnator on the market.

Invisi-Guard is your choice product for marble, granite, and other fine stones, that are not porous enough for film-forming gloss, or semi-gloss sealers, as well as concrete, and other porous stones, and plaster. It is a stand alone product, and should not be used with any other sealing product. This is a reactive product, that forms a permanent bond with the stone or masonry surface. Don't be fooled by the price, or that it is water-based. Invisi-Guard  proves that near 0 v.o.c. can out perform sickening high solvent products.

Impregnators cost more than your average film-forming sealer to make, but not 10 times as much. We refer to what has evolved in the impregnator business, as the "Rolls Royce syndrome". The first companies to come out with oil resistant, invisible technology, set the mark at well over $100 per gallon. We manufacture the BEST product at a reasonable price.

We are leaders in the latest, and best low v.o.c. chemistry.


INVISI-GUARD
INFORMATION
PAGE
CLICK 
MABLE 
TO SEE
ENLARGED
CLICK
CANTERA
TO SEE
ENLARGED
CLICK
GRANITE
TO SEE
ENLARGED
CLICK
CAST CONCRETE
ENLARGED
CLICK
CANTERA
TO SEE
ENLARGED

4) Color Enhancer / Sealer
for use on travertine, limestone, marble, granite,
slate, bricks  and any un-sealed stones

848 Color Enhancer is a waterbased enhancer/ sealer that is used on travertine, granite, marble, brick, limestone, clay and 
un-sealed stones to give them the WET LOOK, and seal them. 

This formula is under 100 v.o.c., so it complies with all SoCal A.Q.M.D. regulations. This is a modified hybrid epoxy/ alkyl resin
that provides depth of color, and clarity of color never seen before in a stone enhancer. 

Check out the pictures on the enhancer page 
of the rich, and beautiful colors brought out by this amazing product !

One picture is worth 1,000 words.

CLICK ON STONES TO SEE ENLARGED VIEW

848
COLOR
ENHANCER
INFORMATION
PAGE

 
 
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 INSTALLATION INFORMATION

#1 The surface must be CLEAN, and DRY!!! before using any sealer!!!

 This is the biggest way to get in trouble. Sealers do not hide grout haze, or dirt. What you see is what you get. Properly clean your surfaces before grouting. The surface must also be visibly dry, so the sealer is absorbed into the substrate. Failure to do so, may result in lifting, or peeling of the finish. This is a golden rule for all sealers; not just ours. This is especially important on floors where hydrostatic pressure may exist (vapor pressure from below the surface). Even after a sealer cures in the upper part of a substrate, vapor pressures will force their way up through the sealer. The particle size of sealers usually leave small spaces approximately 1 micron, or smaller which lets vapor pressure breathe out of the substrate. At the same time standing water, and stains, on the surface will be repelled from absorbing into the surface. If the surface is not dry when you apply the sealer; capillary action does not draw the sealer into the surface. In this case, the sealer will sit on the surface, and have nothing to grab into, and the sealer will lift. This condition will appear similar to efflorescence. This situation will require stripping the sealer and re-applying. So a little patience, and preparation is well worth it.

        #2 WATER, or OIL RESISTANT; do not mean WATER or OIL PROOF.

 Look up the meaning of each, and understand them. Resistant here means, these are great for an outside patio that gets even a substantial amount of rain, or oil; but does NOT infer that you would use these products to water-proof your water storage tanks, or swimming pool, although they would provide a high degree of protection. Also when a product is considered stain resistant; it still leaves the burden of good house cleaning on the end user. Even if a sealer repels a stain as it hits the surface; it will in many cases, loose some of it's effectiveness as time goes on. Your sealer is designed to give you a jump on stains.They are not intended for a replacement of good cleaning practices.

        #3 If a floor has mortar, or efflorescence;

 it must be cleaned, and dry before applying sealer. If you need to use an acid to remove mortar, or grout haze; use as weak a solution as necessary. Be sure to protect yourself, as acids can cause serious burns. If an acid has been used; be sure to read #8 (proper neautralizing), then rinse, and let dry. If you do not neutralize after using acid, and then apply a sealer; the sealer will not cure to it's maximum hardness. In the event of a strong solution of acid; you could actually end up with your sealer having the hardness of a crayon. This would only happen with a very strong solution, that was not neutralized. Acid also breaks down concrete, clay and other types of masonry surfaces. These surfaces are healthy in an environment, when the ph is above neutral. Remember to properly pre-seal tiles to keep mortar, and grout from causing a problem that would require using acid.

Do not attempt to hide efflorescence with sealer. Efflorescence is that white chalky look that tiles, and concrete sometimes get. It is most often an alkaline minerals such as sodium oxides (inherent in clays, and mortars). These come to the surface with moisture (vapor pressure), and react with carbon dioxide. They crystallize to form chalky deposits. Use a ph neutral treatment to clean efflorescence, never use an acid treatment. Again we rarely want to expose our surfaces to acids.

Be sure the surface is clean, dry, and stable prior to sealing. Remember; what you see is what you get.

        #4 Whichever look you want; start with that product.

 If you want an invisible look then use either 404 Penetrating Sealer, or our Invisi-Guard Impregnating Sealer, depending on the stone, and your requirements. If you want a high gloss look, you should start, and finish with Ultra High Gloss 686 PLUS. For a matte, or semi-gloss look, use 646 PLUS SATIN/ LOW GLOSS

Use product to pre-grout, and after grouting, go back, and finish sealing with the product you started with. Our products are designed with a good balance between coating, and penetration. Some companies that produce water downed versions of sealers, tell you to first use their penetrating sealers, and then use a film-former (plastic sealer) on top. This flies in the face of good sense. Although there are some circumstances where the substrate is so porous that you can apply one coat of a penetrating sealer prior to an acrylic, or polyurethane; good care must be taken by prior testing, to ensure that the film former will properly absorbed into the surface. If you seal the surface to well, the penetrating sealer will be a bond breaker between the surface, and the sealer. Your safest bet is to start with the product you want as your finish product. Whatever you do; never use a pre-grout product to clog the pores that is not a sealer. Soap type products can work o.k. as a grout release, but negatively affect the ability to properly seal the project.

        #5 These are water based products.

Do not attempt to coat over an oil based finish. It will not adhere. It will be obvious that the finish is not taking. If you apply a water based product to an oil-based product, you will see what is called cratering. That is when the sealer does not lay down in an even coat and you see areas where the sealer is rejecting itself from the surface. There are two things you can do in this circumstance. One is to strip the old coating off, or if the law allows; you can re-apply an oil based coating.

       #6 These finishes can be removed

with any of the strippers on the market for water based paint or sealers. This is includes the polyurethanes. These are acrylic modified and are stripped in the same manner as an acrylic. Bear in mind, that strippers are products that melt plastic sealers.
Therefore use of chemical respirators, good ventilation, protective clothing, and protective gloves are essential. Read and follow all directions, and warnings provided by the manufacturer. Avoid even short-term exposure to stripper fumes. We recommend you seek professional help, if you are unsure about stripping your project.

        #7 If you have not used a sealer

 before on a given product; make a test sample, on an un-installed piece of your stone, or tile, to ensure it is the effect you are looking for, and that the sealer is compatible with your substrate. Seal your test sample in the exact same manner you plan to seal your substrate. Then after it is cured; test for water resistance, stain resistance, slip resistance, and any other properties which you are expecting the product to provide. Also if you are not sure about the suitability of this product for your application; seek professional advice from a licensed application company, and ask for references. You can also call us, and we would be glad to assist you.

        #8 People ask is this a one coat, or two coat product?

Our products are formulated to work on a wide range of products. While they are designed to have very good coating properties; there is no exact answer to how many coats. Different stones have very differing absorption rates. Beware of so-called one-coat products. You may not get proper penetration for the sealer to properly work. Sealers are different from paints. Sealers need to absorb into the substrate, and anchor in. You decide that your job is properly sealed as follows: Apply your first coat of sealer. You see the surface darken as it gets wet. Let the surface become visibly dry. Apply next coat. If the surface again darkens; it is not yet sealed. When you apply the coat where the surface does not darken, as if it is getting wet; then your job is sealed. We then recommend one more coat for safe keeping. Remember to let the floor properly cure prior to expecting full performance.

#9 Applying sealers after an acid stain

If you are planning to use a film-forming (semi-gloss, or high gloss product) over an acid stain; read this two times;
then read it again backwards! Acrylic, and polyurethane sealers need to be in a ph range, slightly above neutral. If they are not you will see a drop in performance. It will seriously affect the hardness of the finish, and all other performance factors. The worst case example 
of acid contamination I have ever seen was a job I looked at, that had 686 High Gloss applied. When I examined the surface; it felt like crayon. I was not sure what was on the surface. When the homeowner told me the other room was just fine; I inquired, and found out that he had not used a sealer prior to grouting, and he had used undiluted muriatic acid to clean the grout in this area. He also did not rinse the surface. This did not just affect the sealer, but did some serious damage to his grout.Your average person would not do something that radical, but lesser degrees of acid contamination will affect the performance...To demonstrate the importance of, and how to neutralize after acid staining; I have quoted from the web site of the L. M. Scofield Company.
They manufacture acid stains, and the following excerpt from TECH-DATA BULLETIN A-414  in italics shows what needs to be done.

"....Rinsing: After the final application of LITHOCHROME Chemstain Classic has remained on the surface for a minimum of 4 hours, all unreacted Chemstain residue must be neutralized and then removed completely prior to sealing. A solution of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, using 1 pound of baking soda per 5 gallons of water (454 g/19 L), can be used to neutralize the residual Chemstain acid. The solution should be applied until it stops fizzing.

After neutralization, the surface should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water several times to remove soluble salts. Runoff may stain adjacent areas or harm plants. It should be collected by wet-vacuuming or absorbing with an inert material. After rinsing is complete, a pH test using litmus paper or pH paper should be performed to verify that no residual acid is present. A wet strip of red or neutral litmus paper should be applied to the surface, and if the litmus turns blue, no residual acid is present. Alternatively, wide-range type pH paper can be used by applying a wet strip to the surface and comparing with the color chart. If the color chart indicates a pH of 7 or higher, no residual acid is present. If residual acid is present, further neutralization is required. After completion of neutralization, rinsing, and verification that no acid is present, the stained surface should be tested for cleanliness by wiping the surface with a white cloth. If residue appears on the cloth, additional surface cleaning must be performed.

Failure to completely remove all residue prior to sealing the surface will cause
appearance defects, adhesion loss or peeling, reduced durability, and possible bonding failure and delamination of the sealer....Failure to completely remove all Chemstain residue and rinse the surface clean prior to sealing will result in performance problems with the sealer..."
 


 
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Duro Shine Sealers LLC
P.O. Box 5358 - North Hollywood, Ca. 91606