SELF CROSSLINKING ACRYLIC/
SILANE MODIFIED FLUOROPOLYMER IMPREGNATING SEALER
We are on the leading edge of
technology in low v.o.c. products
for your masonry, unglazed tile, slate, pavers, concrete, marble, granite, grout,
stamped concrete, limestone, travertine, brick, clay, plaster and stone projects.
"... innovators in low v.o.c. stone protection
"...Duro Shine develops and manufactures high quality water-based products
to the highest standards of performance...at realistic prices..."
HOW TO SEAL STONE & TILE
The following information is provided to make your application of sealers trouble free.
Often we find people applying sealers as an after-thought.
It should be understood that applying sealers is as important a process as setting the tile.
I hope you find the following helpful.
Read on, and happy sealing!
Slate, Grout, Clay, and Masonry
DURO SHINE SEALERS
part 1 - Our Products
First let's put our sealers into four categories, and see the differences.
PENETRATING, ACRYLIC/ POLYURATHANE
1) PENETRATING SEALER
404 PENETRATING SEALER is a penetrating sealer, as opposed to a film-former. A film-former is one that forms a plastic film. These are nearly invisible. This sealer is a potassium siliconate, and type of reactive silioxane. When it is applied, it reacts with the concrete, forming densifying crystals, that add a water resistant barrier.
404 is for use on any masonry,
or clay type of porous tile, concrete or stucco. You would not use this
type of product on marble, or granite. This will protect against water,
and is an excellent grout release. A grout release means that if you install
a porous tile, such as a paver; you must stop the porosity of the tile
before you grout. If not, then the grout will stain the tile. 404
IS A STAND ALONE PRODUCT, and
404 is a great product for the money. Most of the competitors require several coats to seal, and some never quite do the job. Some if applied too much will get shiny; 404 will not. Some will turn to white powder on top; 404 will not. With ours, you will only experience a slight color change of the surface. Not really noticeable, unless you have a dark colored stucco and the color must be precise.
404 is an off white, water based liquid, that can be applied with a brush, roller or sponge. It can be used with a sprayer.
But as always with sealers; test some on an un-installed area before applying to your substrate.
based SELF-CROSSLINKING Acrylic/ Poly Sealers
Our water based Self-crosslinking
acrylic/ poly sealers are for use on porous surfaces such as concrete,
stone, clay and concrete pavers, brick, grout, stamped concrete, slate,
unglazed tile, decomposed granite, sand joints and masonry surfaces. These
are film forming sealers, are SUPERIOR
products. Film forming means they form a plastic film. These are
stand alone products. You start with them, and finish with them. They are
designed to be multiple coat products, because there needs to be a balance
between penetration, and coating. They penetrate very well on porous substrates,
With the V.O.C. laws in California, and other states following the same; water based products must replace solvent based ones. In California, this change has happened. Dealers, and contractors are looking for something to replace old, inferior solvent based lacquers. Our water based self-crosslinking acrylic/polys out-perform any non-self-crosslinking product on the market.
We have two self-crosslinking acrylic/poly products. 646 PLUS SEMI GLOSS, and 686 ULTRA HIGH GLOSS. As with the acrylics, the main difference is the look. 646 PLUS is semi gloss, and 686 PLUS is the ultra high gloss.
They are harder plastics than the acrylics, and have a much higher melt point. When acrylics are softening in hot weather; self-crosslinking acrylic/ polyurethanes maintain their integrity. The self-crosslinking acrylic, and the solvent-free poly are the ultimate resin for a film-forming sealer. The combination obtains the optimum characteristics of each. The solvent free polyurethane side adds to the hardness and durability. The self-crosslinking make these the high end choice for use as a joint stabilizer, or binding decomposed granite. These also add strength and integrity to grout.
When grout forms; it is similar
to concrete. It is a 28 day curing process. Most tile setters do not wait
more than a day, or two after grouting to seal tiles. Sealers damage the
grout curing process, and compromise the grout.
You also will not have to breathe the high solvent content of lacquer, and at the same time... get better results. Also if you look carefully at the label of some solvent based lacquer, some actually tell you not to use where hydrostatic pressure (vapor pressure) exists. That would be just about anything attached to the earth. Then they tell you to use it on your driveway. Oil based lacquer is NON BREATHABLE. First it shines; then it darkens and yellows as it decays, loosing the color, and essence of the substrate, and peels. A common sales pitch we hear about lacquer is ..."it gives a beautiful dark look to the tiles".
Feel confident with our semi-gloss, and ultra high gloss sealers. Our film formering sealers only slightly darken the surface, while they enhance the natural colors, of your stone, and are breathable. Breathable means that vapor pressure from below can work it's way through the surface without delaminting it.
646 PLUS and 686 PLUS have excellent coating and re-coat properties. Apply with a brush, sponge, roller, or sprayer. Apply a heavy first coat, and let completely dry. Remaining coats should be light. If the surface darkens like it is getting wet, when you are applying; it is not sealed yet. When you apply the coat where it does not darken when it gets wet; then it is sealed. The re-coat is excellent. Do not apply in direct sunlight on a hot day. Flashing could occur, where the sealer sets up on the surface, and does not penetrate into the surface.
3) Water Based Impregnating Sealer
We beat them at under 2 v.o.c.. This California proof of concept product is revolutionary.
Invisi-Guard is your choice product for marble, granite, and other fine stones, that are not porous enough for film-forming gloss, or semi-gloss sealers, as well as concrete, and other porous stones, and plaster. It is a stand alone product, and should not be used with any other sealing product. This is a reactive product, that forms a permanent bond with the stone or masonry surface. Don't be fooled by the price, or that it is water-based. Invisi-Guard proves that near 0 v.o.c. can out perform sickening high solvent products.
Impregnators cost more than your average film-forming sealer to make, but not 10 times as much. We refer to what has evolved in the impregnator business, as the "Rolls Royce syndrome". The first companies to come out with oil resistant, invisible technology, set the mark at well over $100 per gallon. We manufacture the BEST product at a reasonable price.
We are leaders in the latest, and best low v.o.c. chemistry.
4) Color Enhancer / Sealer
848 Color Enhancer is a waterbased
enhancer/ sealer that is used on travertine, granite, marble, brick, limestone,
This formula is under 100 v.o.c.,
so it complies with all SoCal A.Q.M.D. regulations. This is a modified
hybrid epoxy/ alkyl resin
Check out the pictures on the
Low v.o.c. means "low volatile
organic compounds", or ugly solvents that hurt the environment. Oil based
lacquer has always had it's short comings. It is a product of the 1960's,
and was the best solution of it's time.
The problem for lacquer is that the proper solvent for thinning this oil based resin is Toluene. It is an oily solvent from the "aromatic" solvent family. Unfortunately it is high v.o.c., and can not be used to it's proper levels to comply with states such as California. In high v.o.c. lacquer; some acetone is used to cause faster evaporation. Acetone is from the "keytone" family of solvents. It is not a good solvent for lacquer, but has it's place in the formula, because it evaporates better than toluene.
Here is where the problem is
with low v.o.c. lacquer. Acetone is considered an exempt solvent in California.
So the way manufacturers get the v.o.c. down to acceptable levels is to
replace the toluene with acetone. Again remember that acetone is not a
very compatible solvent for lacquer. So you have two problems. One the
evaporation rate is much higher than normal. This causes several problems
such as flashing, which is where the sealer boils off on the surface, and
does not get into the substrate. So you get less protection, and peeling
more likely to happen. Secondly since acetone is not a good solvent for
lacquer; the formulation never quite melds together properly. You do not
get all the chemicals properly interacting with each other.
So the next time you hear a manufacturer
say..."new and improved low v.o.c. lacquer formula";
#1 The surface must be CLEAN, and DRY!!! before using any sealer!!!
#2 WATER, or OIL RESISTANT; do not mean WATER or OIL PROOF.
#3 If a floor has mortar, or efflorescence;
Do not attempt to hide efflorescence with sealer. Efflorescence is that white chalky look that tiles, and concrete sometimes get. It is most often an alkaline minerals such as sodium oxides (inherent in clays, and mortars). These come to the surface with moisture (vapor pressure), and react with carbon dioxide. They crystallize to form chalky deposits. Use a ph neutral treatment to clean efflorescence, never use an acid treatment. Again we rarely want to expose our surfaces to acids.
Be sure the surface is clean, dry, and stable prior to sealing. Remember; what you see is what you get.
#4 Whichever look you want; start with that product.
Use product to pre-grout, and after grouting, go back, and finish sealing with the product you started with. Our products are designed with a good balance between coating, and penetration. Some companies that produce water downed versions of sealers, tell you to first use their penetrating sealers, and then use a film-former (plastic sealer) on top. This flies in the face of good sense. Although there are some circumstances where the substrate is so porous that you can apply one coat of a penetrating sealer prior to an acrylic, or polyurethane; good care must be taken by prior testing, to ensure that the film former will properly absorbed into the surface. If you seal the surface to well, the penetrating sealer will be a bond breaker between the surface, and the sealer. Your safest bet is to start with the product you want as your finish product. Whatever you do; never use a pre-grout product to clog the pores that is not a sealer. Soap type products can work o.k. as a grout release, but negatively affect the ability to properly seal the project.
#5 These are water based products.
#6 These finishes can be removed
Therefore use of chemical respirators, good ventilation, protective clothing, and protective gloves are essential. Read and follow all directions, and warnings provided by the manufacturer. Avoid even short-term exposure to stripper fumes. We recommend you seek professional help, if you are unsure about stripping your project.
#7 If you have not used a sealer
#8 People ask is this a one coat, or two coat product?
#9 Applying sealers after an acid stain
then read it again backwards! Acrylic, and polyurethane sealers need to be in a ph range, slightly above neutral. If they are not you will see a drop in performance. It will seriously affect the hardness of the finish, and all other performance factors. The worst case example
of acid contamination I have ever seen was a job I looked at, that had 686 High Gloss applied. When I examined the surface; it felt like crayon. I was not sure what was on the surface. When the homeowner told me the other room was just fine; I inquired, and found out that he had not used a sealer prior to grouting, and he had used undiluted muriatic acid to clean the grout in this area. He also did not rinse the surface. This did not just affect the sealer, but did some serious damage to his grout.Your average person would not do something that radical, but lesser degrees of acid contamination will affect the performance...To demonstrate the importance of, and how to neutralize after acid staining; I have quoted from the web site of the L. M. Scofield Company.
They manufacture acid stains, and the following excerpt from TECH-DATA BULLETIN A-414 in italics shows what needs to be done.
"....Rinsing: After the final application of LITHOCHROME Chemstain Classic has remained on the surface for a minimum of 4 hours, all unreacted Chemstain residue must be neutralized and then removed completely prior to sealing. A solution of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, using 1 pound of baking soda per 5 gallons of water (454 g/19 L), can be used to neutralize the residual Chemstain acid. The solution should be applied until it stops fizzing.
After neutralization, the surface should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water several times to remove soluble salts. Runoff may stain adjacent areas or harm plants. It should be collected by wet-vacuuming or absorbing with an inert material. After rinsing is complete, a pH test using litmus paper or pH paper should be performed to verify that no residual acid is present. A wet strip of red or neutral litmus paper should be applied to the surface, and if the litmus turns blue, no residual acid is present. Alternatively, wide-range type pH paper can be used by applying a wet strip to the surface and comparing with the color chart. If the color chart indicates a pH of 7 or higher, no residual acid is present. If residual acid is present, further neutralization is required. After completion of neutralization, rinsing, and verification that no acid is present, the stained surface should be tested for cleanliness by wiping the surface with a white cloth. If residue appears on the cloth, additional surface cleaning must be performed.
Failure to completely remove
all residue prior to sealing the surface will cause
Duro Shine Sealers LLC
P.O. Box 5358 - North Hollywood, Ca. 91606