Slate, Grout, Clay, and Masonry
with
DURO SHINE SEALERS
part 1 - Our Products
part 2 - Technical information on defective
low v.o.c. lacquers
part 3 - Installation Information
First let's put our sealers into four categories, and see the differences.
PENETRATING, ACRYLIC/ POLYURETHANE
SILANE
MODIFIED FLUOROPOLYMER IMPREGNATING SEALER, AND THE COLOR ENHANCER
1) PENETRATING SEALER
for use on concrete, clay, masonry
and pavers
404 Penetrating Sealer is listed
online by the Southern California Air Quality Management District as a
"SUPER COMPLIANT" product!
404 PENETRATING SEALER is a penetrating sealer, as opposed to a film-former. A film-former is one that forms a plastic film. These are nearly invisible. This sealer is a potassium siliconate, and type of reactive silioxane. When it is applied, it reacts with the concrete, forming densifying crystals, that add a water resistant barrier.
404 is for use on any masonry,
or clay type of porous tile, concrete or stucco. You would not use this
type of product on marble, or granite. This will protect against water,
and is an excellent grout release. A grout release means that if you install
a porous tile, such as a paver; you must stop the porosity of the tile
before you grout. If not, then the grout will stain the tile. 404
IS A STAND ALONE PRODUCT, and
should not be used in conjunction
with any other of our sealers.
404 is not intended to be an oil-resistant
product. Should oil fall on the surface; it will remain on the surface
for a time (days) at normal temperatures. But when you clean it up; oil
residual will remain in the upper layers of the finish.
404 is a great product for the money. Most of the competitors require several coats to seal, and some never quite do the job. Some if applied too much will get shiny; 404 will not. Some will turn to white powder on top; 404 will not. With ours, you will only experience a slight color change of the surface. Not really noticeable, unless you have a dark colored stucco and the color must be precise.
404 is an off white, water based liquid, that can be applied with a brush, roller or sponge. It can be used with a sprayer.
But as always with sealers; test some on an un-installed area before applying to your substrate.
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
PENETRATING SEALER INFORMATION PAGE |
BRICK TO ENLARGE |
CONCRETE TO ENLARGE |
STUCCO TO ENLARGE |
2) Water
based SELF-CROSSLINKING Acrylic/ Poly Sealers
for use on clay, concrete, masonry,
slate,
pavers, bricks, decomposed granite,
sand joints and porous stones,
but not travertine
Our water based Self-crosslinking
acrylic/ poly sealers are for use on porous surfaces such as concrete,
stone, clay and concrete pavers, brick, grout, stamped concrete, slate,
unglazed tile, decomposed granite, sand joints and masonry surfaces. These
are film forming sealers, are SUPERIOR
LACQUER REPLACEMENT
products. Film forming means they form a plastic film. These are
stand alone products. You start with them, and finish with them. They are
designed to be multiple coat products, because there needs to be a balance
between penetration, and coating. They penetrate very well on porous substrates,
so you
DO NOT use a penetrating sealer
first. Film forming sealers for tile, and stone need to
penetrate into the surface so they
are anchored in. If they just sit on the surface as a one coat product
would do, then vapor pressure could make them lift (delaminate), and you
would not get the depth of enhancement, or stain protection.
With the V.O.C. laws in California, and other states following the same; water based products must replace solvent based ones. In California, this change has happened. Dealers, and contractors are looking for something to replace old, inferior solvent based lacquers. Our water based self-crosslinking acrylic/polys out-perform any non-self-crosslinking product on the market.
We have two self-crosslinking acrylic/poly products. 646 PLUS SEMI GLOSS, and 686 ULTRA HIGH GLOSS. As with the acrylics, the main difference is the look. 646 PLUS is semi gloss, and 686 PLUS is the ultra high gloss.
They are harder plastics than the acrylics, and have a much higher melt point. When acrylics are softening in hot weather; self-crosslinking acrylic/ polyurethanes maintain their integrity. The self-crosslinking acrylic, and the solvent-free poly are the ultimate resin for a film-forming sealer. The combination obtains the optimum characteristics of each. The solvent free polyurethane side adds to the hardness and durability. The self-crosslinking make these the high end choice for use as a joint stabilizer, or binding decomposed granite. These also add strength and integrity to grout.
When grout forms; it is similar
to concrete. It is a 28 day curing process. Most tile setters do not wait
more than a day, or two after grouting to seal tiles. Sealers damage the
grout curing process, and compromise the grout.
If someone tells you otherwise;
do the poor man's test to see what I am explaining.
Take a little grout in a small
cup, and mix it with the amount of water you would add to your grout. Then
take another cup, and instead of adding water; mix it with the same amount
of sealer. Wait a few days and look at your results. The water/ grout mixture
will be hardened, while the sealer/ grout will be like sand.
We recommend waiting until grout
is cured, and then get the extra added strength of our film forming sealers
on your project.
You also will not have to breathe the high solvent content of lacquer, and at the same time... get better results. Also if you look carefully at the label of some solvent based lacquer, some actually tell you not to use where hydrostatic pressure (vapor pressure) exists. That would be just about anything attached to the earth. Then they tell you to use it on your driveway. Oil based lacquer is NON BREATHABLE. First it shines; then it darkens and yellows as it decays, loosing the color, and essence of the substrate, and peels. A common sales pitch we hear about lacquer is ..."it gives a beautiful dark look to the tiles".
Feel confident with our semi-gloss, and ultra high gloss sealers. Our film formering sealers only slightly darken the surface, while they enhance the natural colors, of your stone, and are breathable. Breathable means that vapor pressure from below can work it's way through the surface without delaminting it.
646 PLUS and 686 PLUS have excellent coating and re-coat properties. Apply with a brush, sponge, roller, or sprayer. Apply a heavy first coat, and let completely dry. Remaining coats should be light. If the surface darkens like it is getting wet, when you are applying; it is not sealed yet. When you apply the coat where it does not darken when it gets wet; then it is sealed. The re-coat is excellent. Do not apply in direct sunlight on a hot day. Flashing could occur, where the sealer sets up on the surface, and does not penetrate into the surface.
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
LOW GLOSS INFORMATION PAGE |
STONE 646 PLUS SEALED SLATE |
STONE 646 PLUS SEALED PAVER |
STONE 646 PLUS ON FLAMED GRANITE |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
ULTRA HIGH GLOSS INFORMATION PAGE |
STONE 686 PLUS SEALED SLATE |
STONE 686 PLUS SEALED PAVER |
STONE 686 PLUS ON FLAMED GRANITE |
3) Water Based Impregnating Sealer
for use on marble, granite,
limestone, cantera, clay pavers
plaster and concrete
CONCRETE SEALED WITH INVISI-GUARD THEN WE DROP A BUCKET
OF WATER ON IT
INVISI-GUARD is listed online
by the Southern California Air Quality Management District
as a "SUPER COMPLIANT" product
!
Invisi-Guard Impregnator
is a water based SILANE MODIFIED FLUOROPOLYMER, and the BEST impregnator
on the market. It is used on all types of stones to provide excellent water,
oil and stain resistance. It is nearly invisible. This is a water-based
product; 1.8 v.o.c. , and performs better than any oil, or water-based
impregnator on the market, including that impregnators are over 700 v.o.c..
We beat them at under 2 v.o.c..
This California proof of concept product is revolutionary.
Invisi-Guard is your choice product for marble, granite, and other fine stones, that are not porous enough for film-forming gloss, or semi-gloss sealers, as well as concrete, and other porous stones, and plaster. It is a stand alone product, and should not be used with any other sealing product. This is a reactive product, that forms a permanent bond with the stone or masonry surface. Don't be fooled by the price, or that it is water-based. Invisi-Guard proves that near 0 v.o.c. can out perform sickening high solvent products.
Impregnators cost more than your average film-forming sealer to make, but not 10 times as much. We refer to what has evolved in the impregnator business, as the "Rolls Royce syndrome". The first companies to come out with oil resistant, invisible technology, set the mark at well over $100 per gallon. We manufacture the BEST product at a reasonable price.
We are leaders in the latest, and best low v.o.c. chemistry.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
INFORMATION PAGE |
MABLE TO SEE ENLARGED |
CANTERA TO SEE ENLARGED |
GRANITE TO SEE ENLARGED |
CAST CONCRETE ENLARGED |
CANTERA TO SEE ENLARGED |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
PAGE |
AND PRODUCT MENU |
PRODUCT |
|
INQUIRES |
INSTALLATION INFORMATION
#1 The surface must be CLEAN, and DRY!!! before using any sealer!!!
#2 WATER, or OIL RESISTANT; do not mean WATER or OIL PROOF.
#3 If a floor has mortar, or efflorescence;
Do not attempt to hide efflorescence with sealer. Efflorescence is that white chalky look that tiles, and concrete sometimes get. It is most often an alkaline minerals such as sodium oxides (inherent in clays, and mortars). These come to the surface with moisture (vapor pressure), and react with carbon dioxide. They crystallize to form chalky deposits. Use a ph neutral treatment to clean efflorescence, never use an acid treatment. Again we rarely want to expose our surfaces to acids.
Be sure the surface is clean, dry,
and stable prior to sealing. Remember; what you see is what you get.
READ SECTION 9 HERE ON NEUTRALIZING
ACID!
#4 Whichever look you want; start with that product.
Use product to pre-grout, and after grouting, go back, and finish sealing with the product you started with. Our products are designed with a good balance between coating, and penetration. Some companies that produce water downed versions of sealers, tell you to first use their penetrating sealers, and then use a film-former (plastic sealer) on top. This flies in the face of good sense. Although there are some circumstances where the substrate is so porous that you can apply one coat of a penetrating sealer prior to an acrylic, or polyurethane; good care must be taken by prior testing, to ensure that the film former will properly absorbed into the surface. If you seal the surface too well, the penetrating sealer will be a bond breaker between the surface, and the sealer. Your safest bet is to start with the product you want as your finish product. Whatever you do; never use a pre-grout product to clog the pores that is not a sealer. Soap type products can work o.k. as a grout release, but negatively affect the ability to properly seal the project.
#5 These are water based products.
#6 The 646, 686 and 848 finishes can be removed
Therefore use of chemical respirators, good ventilation, protective clothing, and protective gloves are essential. Read and follow all directions, and warnings provided by the manufacturer. Avoid even short-term exposure to stripper fumes. We recommend you seek professional help, if you are unsure about stripping your project. The 848 can also be removed with a stripper, but is more difficult.
Thats why we tell you to read all instructions first, and test on un-instllaed piece.
#7 If you have not used a sealer
need to be re-applilied.
#8 People ask is this a one coat, or two coat product?
Apply your first coat of sealer. You see the surface darken as it gets wet. Let the surface become visibly dry. Apply next coat. If the surface again darkens; it is not yet sealed. When you apply the coat where the surface does not darken, as if it is getting wet; then your job is sealed. We then recommend one more coat for safe keeping. Remember to let the floor properly cure prior to expecting full performance.
#9 Applying sealers after an acid stain
then read it again backwards! Acrylic, and polyurethane sealers need to be in a ph range, slightly above neutral. If they are not you will see a drop in performance. It will seriously affect the hardness of the finish, and all other performance factors. The worst case example
of acid contamination I have ever seen was a job I looked at, that had 686 High Gloss applied. When I examined the surface; it felt like crayon. I was not sure what was on the surface. When the homeowner told me the other room was just fine; I inquired, and found out that he had not used a sealer prior to grouting, and he had used undiluted muriatic acid to clean the grout in this area. He also did not rinse the surface. This did not just affect the sealer, but did some serious damage to his grout.Your average person would not do something that radical, but lesser degrees of acid contamination will affect the performance...To demonstrate the importance of, and how to neutralize after acid staining; I have quoted from the web site of the L. M. Scofield Company.
They manufacture acid stains, and the following excerpt from TECH-DATA BULLETIN A-414 in italics shows what needs to be done.
"....Rinsing: After the final application of LITHOCHROME Chemstain Classic has remained on the surface for a minimum of 4 hours, all unreacted Chemstain residue must be neutralized and then removed completely prior to sealing. A solution of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, using 1 pound of baking soda per 5 gallons of water (454 g/19 L), can be used to neutralize the residual Chemstain acid. The solution should be applied until it stops fizzing.
After neutralization, the surface should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water several times to remove soluble salts. Runoff may stain adjacent areas or harm plants. It should be collected by wet-vacuuming or absorbing with an inert material. After rinsing is complete, a pH test using litmus paper or pH paper should be performed to verify that no residual acid is present. A wet strip of red or neutral litmus paper should be applied to the surface, and if the litmus turns blue, no residual acid is present. Alternatively, wide-range type pH paper can be used by applying a wet strip to the surface and comparing with the color chart. If the color chart indicates a pH of 7 or higher, no residual acid is present. If residual acid is present, further neutralization is required. After completion of neutralization, rinsing, and verification that no acid is present, the stained surface should be tested for cleanliness by wiping the surface with a white cloth. If residue appears on the cloth, additional surface cleaning must be performed.
Failure to completely remove
all residue prior to sealing the surface will cause
appearance defects, adhesion
loss or peeling, reduced durability, and possible bonding failure and delamination
of the sealer....Failure to completely remove all Chemstain residue and
rinse the surface clean prior to sealing will result in performance problems
with the sealer..."
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
ON DEFECTIVE LOW V.O.C. LACQUER
One of the most asked questions
that we get is regarding problems with lacquer that is re-formulated for
low v.o.c. compliance in areas like California. We hear many stories of
job failures, and disappointment with performance, yellowing, cracking
and peeling.
Here is why LOW v.o.c. lacguer
is "defective, and out-dated!
Low v.o.c. means "low volatile organic compounds", or ugly solvents that hurt the environment. Oil based lacquer has always had it's short comings. It is a product of the 1960's, and was the best solution of it's time.
The first problem with all lacquer is that it's a non-breathable coating. If you read the can; it most likely acknowledges "do not use in areas of hydrostatic pressure." That would be any area where vapor pressure needs to come up from the ground, or more clearly put...not for use on any area attached to the earth.
Now as states such as California have found that better alternative products are available with much lower v.o.c contents; State Air Quality Agencies have lowered the amount of v.o.c. allowed in sealers. But companies that make lacquer...want to keep the old dog alive in a low v.o.c. environment. But State Air Quality officials are requiring new lower standards. Lacquer needs to be in a high v.o.c. solution. Low v.o.c. lacquer is problematic. High quality, low v.o.c. products can only be made with new, superior new technology.
The technical problem with low v.o.c. lacquer is that the proper solvent for thinning this oil based resin is Toluene. It is an oily solvent from the "aromatic" solvent family. Unfortunately it is high v.o.c., and can not be used to it's proper levels to comply with states such as California. In high v.o.c. lacquer; a small amount of acetone is used to cause faster evaporation. Acetone is from the "keytone" family of solvents. It is not a good solvent for lacquer, but has it's place in the formula, (in small amounts) because it evaporates better than toluene.
Acetone is considered an exempt
solvent in California. So the way manufacturers get the v.o.c. down to
acceptable levels is to replace the toluene with acetone. Again remember
that acetone is not a very compatible solvent for lacquer. So you have
two problems. One the evaporation rate of too much acetone causes rapid
evaporation. This causes several problems such as flashing, which is where
the sealer boils off on the surface, and does not get into the substrate.
So you get less protection, cracking, short life, and peeling occur. Secondly
since acetone is not a good solvent for lacquer; the formulation never
quite melds together properly. You do not get all the chemicals properly
interacting with each other.
Just picture making hot chocolate
with cinnamon, and the mix never quite blends in completely. You need a
new idea, not a re-formulation !
 |
 |
|
|
|
So the next time you hear a manufacturer
say..."new and improved low v.o.c. lacquer formula";
remember...the words "defective",
out-dated and "unfixable".
